10 steps to planting a new lawn
22. 9. 2017
Common lawn planting mistakes:
- Cost cutting
- Insufficient irrigation
- Wrong first mowing
- Insufficient fertilisation
- Inappropriate choice of seed
- Inappropriate choice of subsoil and topsoil
How to plant an English-style lawn in 10 steps
- First of all, it is necessary to acknowledge that a well-planted lawn is something like a well-built house; it will serve you well for decades. Cutting expenses at its start does not pay off.
- Decision on soil for the lawn must be taken very carefully, whether you opt for sowing or a roll-out lawn. A properly executed sowing ensures continuous improvement of the lawn, under the right care. When it comes to the roll-out, carpet-like grass, the risk of failure is much higher.
- 95 per cent problems with an old lawn are caused by overly dense soil. While topsoil tends to densify, sand does not. The grass needs nutrients, water and sunlight to prosper. It does not need soil and clay. Therefore, ideally, plant your lawn on sand, not on soil. The beginnings might be slower and more complicated, but this solution is far more stable and convenient over the following months and years.
- It is best to begin with a surface that is about 20 cm below the final level of the terrain and create and isolation around concrete elements and tree roots. This will ensure that nothing under the surface will have a negative influence on the lawn and weaken it.
- Even out the surface with ca. 5 cm of gravel, which will cover the uneven spots and create a drainage layer. This is also an ideal moment to lay out irrigation systems and prepare the positions for sprinklers. Layer of siliceous sand with grain fraction of 0-2 mm should follow; each layer should be about 5 cm thick. You need to roll each layer with a lawn roller until you reach the density that will allow you to stand on the sand without sinking into it.
- The key to every lawn are nutrients. We recommend to sprinkle the soil enhancers biovin and zeolite, at least in the top 5 cm layer. Your lawn will only benefit if you add an autumn potassium fertiliser. Adjust the top sand layer to your terrain or about 1 cm below it. The final modelling of the lawn should reflect the features of the mower that you will be taking care of the lawn with. The bigger the mower, the flatter the lawn should be. The better the mower can copy the uneven surface (e.g. a mower with drive rollers), the more you can create bumps, XXXXXX etc. The sand will slightly densify over the following few weeks, but then the turf will start to grow tall.
- Sow with a very high-quality seed mix. Forget the football-pitch and stress mixes, as they do not create a soft and homogenous lawn. Use seed mixes designated for fairways, driving ranges or golf course collars. Split the seed in half and scatter it in one direction and then spread the rest in the opposite direction. Use about 3-4 kg on 100 m2. Dust the seed over with a lawn substrate (up to 5 mm) and roll it down with a roller once more.
- Start irrigating, ideally every 2 hours between 6 am and 8 pm, for around 3 minutes each time. The first watering can take longer, but later you only need to keep the surface moist.
- Depending on the weather, the grass will sprout within 14 – 18 days. Conduct the first mowing, once the grass blades are around 6 cm tall and trim them by ca. 2 cm. After the first mowing, lower the watering frequency to a half. The second and third mowing should follow 3 and 6 days later, respectively. Again, it is ideal to do it with a mower that has a drive roller and does not leave wheel traces. Beware of powerful rotary mowers, as they can literally suck the grass out of the ground.
- Should the autumn weather come, apply biological fertiliser Pure Autumn within 4 weeks after the sowing. Between April and September it is also possible to apply a half dose of the Pure Sport&Golf fertiliser (ca. 1,2 kg/100 m2).
What to watch out for after planting the lawn?
Depending on the weather, lower the irrigation intensity to water less frequently, but deeper.
Watch over the sharpness and adjustment of the mower. A well-adjusted cylinder mower will not damage and tear out even the youngest grass – on the contrary, it accelerates the thickening of the lawn.
The final height of the grass has to comply with the mowing frequency. The more frequently you mow, the shorter grass you can have. We recommend mowing your English-style lawn twice a week, at a maximum height of 25 mm.